Tucked away in the serene embrace of the Aravalli hills near Dungarpur, Rajasthan, the Juna Mahal—or “Old Palace”—is not merely a historical site; it’s a journey through centuries of architectural brilliance, royal ambition, and artistic finesse. Once a royal residence of the Maharawals of Dungarpur, this majestic structure now stands as one of India’s oldest surviving palace complexes, whispering stories of its glorious past to all who enter its ancient gates.
The Origins of a Royal Fortress
Constructed initially in the 13th century, Juna Mahal was envisioned as a royal stronghold with defensive fortifications and an elaborate design that would withstand both time and enemy invasions. The first palace on the site was commissioned by Rawal Veer Singh Deo, and over the centuries, various rulers contributed to its expansion. By the 19th century, the palace had evolved into a sprawling seven-storey citadel, rising like a silent sentinel over the Dungarpur landscape.
The exterior of the palace, built with Pareva stone—a greenish local rock—offers the rugged look of a fortified citadel. From afar, it may seem austere and uninviting, but step inside, and a world of opulence unfolds.
Citadel Outside, Art Museum Within
The contrast between the fortress-like exterior and the lavish interior is nothing short of magical. Juna Mahal’s design is a fascinating study in duality—defense and beauty, functionality and indulgence. Thick fortified walls, narrow doorways, labyrinthine corridors, and watchtowers once served a vital purpose—to delay and trap invaders. But once within, the palace turns into a canvas of art and culture.
Delicate frescoes, miniature paintings, mirror inlays, and intricate glasswork adorn the walls and ceilings. These artworks—many of them still preserved—depict scenes from Hindu mythology, courtly life, flora and fauna, and royal processions. In fact, the palace is one of the finest examples of the Rajput miniature painting tradition, blended with Mughal influences and local artistic flair.
Seven Floors of History
Spanning seven levels, each floor of Juna Mahal has a different purpose and story. The palace’s multi-tiered structure was designed to adapt to the climate and seasons. While the upper floors provided breezy views and light, the lower chambers offered cooler refuge during Rajasthan’s harsh summers.
What’s fascinating is the vertical growth of the palace. As each generation of rulers added rooms, wings, and courtyards, they built upward rather than outward, resulting in a layered architectural narrative. Courtyards punctuate each level, offering natural ventilation and light, while secret staircases connect different wings—another defensive strategy cleverly woven into the design.
A Glimpse into the Royal Lifestyle
At its zenith, Juna Mahal was a thriving royal abode bustling with courtiers, nobles, musicians, artists, and warriors. The darbar halls, residential quarters, and private shrines reveal much about the opulent lifestyle of Dungarpur’s rulers. The walls of several chambers still bear the original paintings, capturing moments of leisure, worship, and celebration frozen in time.
Noteworthy are the glass mosaic ceilings and painted niches, which reflect the refinement of a royal court that valued both spirituality and aesthetics.
A Palace in Peril
Despite its beauty, Juna Mahal is now facing the cruel touch of time. After being in continuous use till the mid-20th century, the palace was gradually abandoned. Neglect, vandalism, and natural wear have taken a toll on this architectural gem. Much of the original artwork has been defaced, and several structural elements are in urgent need of repair.
Recognizing its significance, the site was included in the 2014 World Monuments Watch, an international effort to draw attention to cultural heritage sites at risk. Experts have called for a comprehensive conservation plan to preserve the palace and develop sustainable tourism that respects its legacy.
Hidden Treasures and Legends
Like many ancient forts and palaces in Rajasthan, Juna Mahal is steeped in legends. Locals speak of hidden chambers, underground tunnels, and even secret treasures buried deep within the stone walls. Though unverified, such tales add a layer of mystique to the palace, making a visit here an experience of both history and folklore.
Visitor Tips: How to Explore Juna Mahal
- Getting There: Juna Mahal is located near Dungarpur, around 120 km from Udaipur. The nearest railway station is Dungarpur, and the road connectivity is excellent.
- Best Time to Visit: October to March offers pleasant weather and better visibility for exploring the site and nearby attractions.
- Entry & Accessibility: Though not as developed for tourism as Udaipur or Jaipur, the palace can be accessed with prior permission. A local guide is highly recommended to fully understand its history and nuances.
- Photography: Be prepared to capture breathtaking views of the Aravalli hills and the detailed frescoes within the palace. But be respectful—some areas are fragile and not to be touched.
Beyond Juna Mahal: Explore Dungarpur
Once you’ve explored the awe-inspiring depths of Juna Mahal, consider visiting other highlights in the Dungarpur area:
- Udai Bilas Palace: A lakeside heritage hotel with stunning architecture and décor.
- Gaib Sagar Lake: Ideal for a scenic walk and birdwatching.
- Baneshwar Temple: Located at the confluence of the Mahi and Som rivers, it’s a significant pilgrimage site.
A Living Monument to Rajasthan’s Past
In a state known for grand forts like Chittorgarh and palaces like Udaipur’s City Palace, Juna Mahal remains one of Rajasthan’s best-kept secrets. It may not have the polish of more popular tourist spots, but it offers something rarer—a raw, unfiltered look at a structure that stood tall for centuries, survived dynasties, and still whispers stories through its painted walls and worn stones.
Whether you’re a lover of art, architecture, or history, a visit to Juna Mahal promises to be an unforgettable walk through time.